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Slalom Cone Skating Forum Discussions about slalom cone skating, high-jump, and other freestyle trick skating. (Note that vert, street, and park skating discussions should be posted in our aggressive skating forum.)

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Old December 27th, 2014, 02:20 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 46
Default Need some wheel help fast

Durometer is the issue. Want to get new wheels-bearing for dedicated indoor skating.

I do a lot of indoor skating on wood. I weight 215 lbs. (Rockered frames 243)

Here it is…. been using the street invader 80mm wheels and they are great and grip the floor perfect. I have had the wheels just under a year now.

Problem when I get up on the front wheels it is almost like I feel them flex and may I say bind? Thats what it feels like anyway.

I'm thinking changing the front and rear or all 8 wheels to a F1 86A (matter FSK juice) hardness. Is this what you freestyle people are using? I was also looking around and found a 88A (team Rio Janeiro) on Shop Task's website.

I understand it comes down to preference but I'm thinking the harder wheels are going to be better for me. Just do not want to waste money.

Have you found the 88's too hard or are the F1's just right. OR are you mixing wheels.

Do you have any other recommendations for me? Thanks
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Old December 29th, 2014, 11:44 AM   #2
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Huntington Wv
Posts: 3,352

When I think about doing toe work on my inlines the thing that seems to make the biggest impact on that "locking up" feeling is the hubs. Pretty much all of my inline wheels have very loose hubs anymore with the exception of some newer MPC's I haven't skated a whole lot.

Have you looked inside your frame to see if the wheel has rubbed it any? Theres 2 reasons a wheel would lock up from toe work, one is bearings being twisted by the wheels leverage, and the other is the wheel rubbing the frame.

If your hubs are still tight around your bearings..
A smaller wheel of the same hardness or a same sized harder wheel may be what you need.

I tried loctite on some wheels once, loved it. Basically I sanded the outer race where it comes in contact with the wheels hub and sanded the hub a little, ya know just to rough the mating surfaces up for a better hold via the loctite. Made that softer hub feel amazingly solid. I broke the hub on that wheel , it was a bad batch of labeda highway patrols, I had already broken 2 of the sets hubs, so I did some testing on the loctite idea.

It can be hard to get the bearings back out. But honestly I'm not sure if you'd have a problem on other wheels. The loctite would eventually fail in sure after a lot of side loading as you wore out your wheels. I'll check my quad wheels that I did a long time ago and see if they ever came loose.

When I used a 76mm 82A hockey wheel I had a lot less binding up issue than my 80mm labeda grippers.(medium rated) which are the firmest of the 3 offered. Now that shell is softer than the hockey wheels by about 4 duros id say, probably around 78, I'm pretty sure they flexed into my frame. And they had loose hubs when I took them off last time. It doesn't take long for us bigger guys to waller out some hubs where they are loose. I weigh in at 185-195.
Home rink: Roll-A-Rama in Huntington Wv.
"Focus on form and speed is a byproduct, focus on speed and falling is a byproduct." - Matguy
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Old January 4th, 2015, 03:04 AM   #3
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Thank you Mort and Greg for you input.

I went and purchased a full set of the Matter Juice FSK yellow wheels. I'll give them a shot. If they do not work out I will check out the Undercover wheels next. I kind of knew this was what was going to happen. It's all going to be trial and error and then I will know my preference.

BTW. Not to knock the street invader wheels.... They were good but just wanted to explore a harder wheel and see where it takes me.
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Old January 8th, 2015, 05:04 AM   #4
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I figured out the problem. My SI wheels were out of round. Today 4 of my new wheels arrived. So I put them in the middle and took the best 4 SI wheels and put them in the front and back. There was no binding feeling tonight when I went up on my toes.

What I also noticed was these harder wheels kick ass. Fast and responsive. I can't wait to get the other 4 tomorrow.

Tonight I really liked how the elliptical wheels felt in the middle and the full radius on the outside of the frame felt. Could be my thing but will not know till I try all 4 elliptical wheels on the same frame.

One thing is for sure by going with the harder wheel it had no effect on grip. Actually the matter juice FSK f1 (86a) was gripper than the SI 84a! Now I know I can go with 88a's and be ok.

I learned something tonight. Just because you go with a harder wheel does not mean you have to lose grip. It comes down to the urethane mix that is used within the brand.
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Old January 13th, 2015, 10:00 PM   #5
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Location: Atlanta, GA -- US
Posts: 396

Oh yeah.

Regarding SVT CAMR's question. He IM'd me about it, and here is my reply. Posting here in case it will help others, even if it did not prove to be his problem.


In general, I think 85a or 86a work well do freestyle. I'd guess most slalomers, including top-rated ones, use this range for skating, including wheelings.

It is true that some skaters use harder wheels on the outside, but I think that is to combat wheel wear as much as to provide less flex on one wheel.

It's more likely that flexing is due to one of 3 things.

One - frame flex. If you have a cheaper or damaged frame, it might flex, particularly during wheelings. This can be a problem on frames such as the Rollerblade Twister frame (biggest problem on an otherwise decent skate). Flex is normally not an issue on the freestyle Seba frames, especially the sturdy Deluxe frame. Heavier skaters may want to try the Deluxe frame if the experience flex.

Two - bearing flex. Wheels can flex and bind inside the frame if you use cheap wheels or cheap spacers or don't fully insert bearings or don't fully tighten axles.
You have good wheels. If all the kit is Seba, then spacers are OK too.

However, it is common not to properly insert the bearings. You should: 1) push in bearing one fully with tool (until it cannot go in further). 2) insert spacer and second bearing. 3) push in second bearing with tool until you here a distinct click. 4) flip wheel and push first bearing in again with tool until you hear a click (this will actually push other bearing out a bit, but that's OK. You just want to ensure full bearing/spacer contact).

Three - axle loose. Once you are sure bearing/spacer contact, you want to ensure frame/bearing contact. Be sure to tighten axle such that the wheel will not flex between the frame, but not so much that you strip the axle.

Four - technique. I listed the other 3 points to be verified first, but this is often the cause of wheeling problems. When on one wheel, it is common to be unstable and have your skate not point directly forward. If it's direction wanders far enough offline, the wheel can seem to bind, especially if you also have one of the other problems mentioned. This is the hardest problem to address, because wheeling is just very hard. It normally takes a lot of time, often years, to get good at it. Which is why I normally recommend people to hold off on wheeling until they are bored or feel they've run out of style tricks and techniques to learn. But, hey, you should work on what interests you. Regardless, addressing any of the other mechanical issues should also help your general freestyle/slalom.

Good luck!
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