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Beginning Skaters Forum This is the place for beginning skaters to ask questions and share their stories. We would love to hear about your experiences learning to skate. No question is too dumb!

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Old July 12th, 2016, 12:17 PM   #21
WJCIV
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Thank you. Ok. So the nuts as they are in my pic are fine? They are more or less the same since loosen as I only had to loosen not even half a turn or about that at most. They feel alot more "rolly" Lol under my feet now but I guess that's the idea right?
That one up front looks a little close for comfort. I would probably reverse it so the nylon side went on first to give yourself a little extra time if it does wriggle loose. If the nylon part comes off the end the rest of the nut can come loose very quickly. If the nut is reversed and it comes just a little loose you can feel that or see it before it becomes a problem. You should do a visual inspection before each skate.

It doesn't take much to make them roll well or not. You should tighten the nuts to where they just start to impede the roll, then back them off 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

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Is there any way of posting a video on here? Maybe if I could show you instead of you reading it. I feel like a total pain with all these questions but I need my skates to be right and know no-one that knows a thing about them.
You can post to youtube then give us a link.
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Old July 12th, 2016, 12:20 PM   #22
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Thank you. I did just post a video but not sure if you guys can see it as a vid or image.
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Old July 12th, 2016, 01:27 PM   #23
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It's an image on this site, but you can click through and see the video.

The bearings should not be that loose in that direction. You should only be able to slide them along the axle. It looks like you are using 8mm (608) bearings on an axle meant for 7mm (627) ones. Quads are funny in that the diameter of the hole in the middle of the bearing can be either size. The bearings are not compatible. Did the new skates come with a set of bearings and wheels? If so slide a wheel onto the axle without a nut and see if you get less play than your current wheels and bearings.

It isn't too hard to swap out bearings, especially on hubless wheels.
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Old July 12th, 2016, 01:51 PM   #24
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I did change the whole wheel over from my old skate, bearings and all. OK. I'm about to put the original ones that came on the skates back in.
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Old July 12th, 2016, 05:33 PM   #25
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Ok here's a link to the vid I did after I changed the bearings back to the original.
https://youtu.be/EUKlS5IUmUc
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Old July 12th, 2016, 10:35 PM   #26
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Ok here's a link to the vid I did after I changed the bearings back to the original.
https://youtu.be/EUKlS5IUmUc
8mm axles have a wobble because the manufacturers can't get the sizes right. That's what it looks like to me, some axle/bearing combos are worse than others. Mine is almost as bad on my 8mm axles. There are threads that go into much greater detail about this. Could be a 7mm axle/8mm bearing mismatch, but I don't think so.
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Old July 12th, 2016, 10:50 PM   #27
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Thanks Trixton. Well when I took em off, don't know if you saw the vid, they did look that tiny bit bigger than the ones that had originally been on them. And the wobble is that bit less with the smaller bearing but still a wobble none the less. Though, the skate does feel fine. I didn't get the chance to go out and skate them on the problematic pavement and rougher surfaces because it hasn't stopped raining for two days now. Apparently it's to continue till Thursday. Liberties. Lol
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Old July 13th, 2016, 09:25 AM   #28
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The second video does look much less wobbly, and well within what you see from skating manufacturers. Since you like your old wheels you can swap these new bearings in and be good to go.
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Old July 13th, 2016, 10:00 AM   #29
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The second video does look much less wobbly, and well within what you see from skating manufacturers. Since you like your old wheels you can swap these new bearings in and be good to go.
Phew lol Thank you. They do feel better, though that was indoors as it was raining all day but I'm gonna pop out in a bit and try them. Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll need it again lol. You think taking the washers off will be ok?
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Old July 13th, 2016, 11:12 AM   #30
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Default Yaaaaaaaaay lol

I went out quickly. They are perfect!! Woop! Lol. Alot quicker and alot more roll than before Thank you guys. You've made my day.
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Old August 17th, 2016, 12:58 PM   #31
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I just can't skate on them. Is it me? Is it my wheels? It's really annoying. If it's new level slabs then I'm fine, but the old ones with dips and bumps all over the place I find so difficult and slow me down to almost a walk. I went to a new park today. I struggled and stumbled all the way there and back. At the park I was flying around perfectly but I have no intention to stay in the parks, only using them for practice at the minute. What to do?
There are some things you can do to change the condition.

Since you have mentioned you can fly all around the places of the skate park, I should probable rule out one thing, but just to be complete, I will still ask that ""What is the condition of your bearing? What speed grade is it?"

The next question is "What is the size of your wheel?" If you can play in skate park and doing tricks without a problem, you are probably using too small wheels for the road. Aggressive skates use only wheels smaller than 60 mm for the reason of doing tricks. Those wheels are not for the road, design and size. I played aggressive skate in the past, so I know it.

The third question is "What is the hardness of the wheels?" Though it is not really doing much, but in fact, softer wheels gives better grip but slower speed. Vice versa, harder wheels give better speed but regular to not so well grip. Well, of course, the brand name of the wheels also have something to do with the science..... though it may not be that much....

The fourth question to ask is the chassis. If your skate is free style type, your chassis should be adjustable. That means you may adjust the chassis to see if certain angle is better for your stroke. Everyone walks differently in gait, so does the stroke when skating. You can adjust the position of the chassis for better performance for yourself.

The fifth question, do you fasten your skate snug, tight, or loss? To skate properly, a lose fit condition is a "no good." In aggressive skate, people want to look cool, so they normally only do slightly right fit or a little bit loss fit, so they have room for tricks. But for regular skate, you want a proper fit or snug fit for better power transfer.


Above are the things I will check if I have your issue. All the questions I list are my personal experiences for years of playing inline skates. I am not as good as I used to be, but I'm still in love with in line skates.

Let me know if you need more details. I will try to explain.
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Old August 17th, 2016, 03:42 PM   #32
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There are some things you can do to change the condition.

Since you have mentioned you can fly all around the places of the skate park, I should probable rule out one thing, but just to be complete, I will still ask that ""What is the condition of your bearing? What speed grade is it?"

The next question is "What is the size of your wheel?" If you can play in skate park and doing tricks without a problem, you are probably using too small wheels for the road. Aggressive skates use only wheels smaller than 60 mm for the reason of doing tricks. Those wheels are not for the road, design and size. I played aggressive skate in the past, so I know it.

The third question is "What is the hardness of the wheels?" Though it is not really doing much, but in fact, softer wheels gives better grip but slower speed. Vice versa, harder wheels give better speed but regular to not so well grip. Well, of course, the brand name of the wheels also have something to do with the science..... though it may not be that much....

The fourth question to ask is the chassis. If your skate is free style type, your chassis should be adjustable. That means you may adjust the chassis to see if certain angle is better for your stroke. Everyone walks differently in gait, so does the stroke when skating. You can adjust the position of the chassis for better performance for yourself.

The fifth question, do you fasten your skate snug, tight, or loss? To skate properly, a lose fit condition is a "no good." In aggressive skate, people want to look cool, so they normally only do slightly right fit or a little bit loss fit, so they have room for tricks. But for regular skate, you want a proper fit or snug fit for better power transfer.


Above are the things I will check if I have your issue. All the questions I list are my personal experiences for years of playing inline skates. I am not as good as I used to be, but I'm still in love with in line skates.

Let me know if you need more details. I will try to explain.
Hi Everest. And thank you. OK. ..if I skate park I'm sorry I meant that I skate in the park. Just a normal park with a smooth tarmac type surface path around it and skate fine on that. Have no where reached the trick stage yet. I've since been skating on different skates. Some sfr cosmic. Which for a cheap skate if found to be the most comfy and controllable. But still an issue with pavement to a degree. The bearings in those are stock abec 7 I believe and in good cindition and I have 65mm 78A airwave wheels.
When you say chassis? I'm not sure what that is on the skate. The plate?
Yes I wear them snug and tight. Though I only go up to one before last hole as it's more comfy fir me that way.
I've actually since bought some krypto route 65 but when I put them into the sfr they kinda jam on the axle, don't slip up and down well. I thought the bearing maybe wernt flush but they are. And when I put them on my other skates they're fine. Trouble is they are rookie ruckus and I've realised that flat heeled skates are not for me. I don't understand why the wheel won't sit right on the sfr.
I also have a pair of suregrip fame a few days ago and am finding them harder to control than the sfr. Could that be due to the nylon rock plate? I'm only small so surly not a weight thing
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Old August 17th, 2016, 04:42 PM   #33
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Chassis (or more commonly in my experience, frame) is an inline term. You could call it the equivalent of a plate in some regards, but adjusting a plate requires redrilling holes in the bottom of your boot. The stock mounting should be good enough for you.

I'll also point out that harder wheels are not necessarily faster outdoors. If the surface is perfectly smooth harder wheels are almost always faster, but if there are bumps it's actually advantageous to have a wheel that deforms rather than popping you up in the air (even just slightly), since when you land you actually absorb some energy.

ABEC ratings don't mean anything anymore, and it was always just a machining term. It used to be that the companies which could afford to manufacture higher ABEC rating bearings also had better materials and design. Now Chinese manufacturing is so cheap there are much better indicators of bearing quality.
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Old August 17th, 2016, 10:38 PM   #34
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Chassis (or more commonly in my experience, frame) is an inline term. You could call it the equivalent of a plate in some regards, but adjusting a plate requires redrilling holes in the bottom of your boot. The stock mounting should be good enough for you.

I'll also point out that harder wheels are not necessarily faster outdoors. If the surface is perfectly smooth harder wheels are almost always faster, but if there are bumps it's actually advantageous to have a wheel that deforms rather than popping you up in the air (even just slightly), since when you land you actually absorb some energy.

ABEC ratings don't mean anything anymore, and it was always just a machining term. It used to be that the companies which could afford to manufacture higher ABEC rating bearings also had better materials and design. Now Chinese manufacturing is so cheap there are much better indicators of bearing quality.
Right, got cha. Thanks. Yeah I'm getting to learn this about the bearings. It's frustrating though. Thinking is it me, is it the skates lol. Joke is of all the skates I've bought the cheap sfr I skate best with though I find them a little heavy. The suregrip fame I bought the other day almost seem to have a mind of their own. Not as easy to site on as the sfr though they are lighter. It's all a bloody nightmare lol. Always something
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Old August 18th, 2016, 04:04 AM   #35
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Get better wheels
skate faster so you have more momentum

When skating across rough terrain, its a lot like trying to walk through knee deep water, your core needs to firm up as the ground under you will feel like its dragging your legs back. You will need to ve prepared to drag your leg forward as you stride. Ever have a kid latch onto your foot while you try and walk? Its alot like that

Thats where good wheels come into play, high rebound urethane wheels with a core insert. Ive skated a lot of wheels indoors and out, probably the best ones are Atom poison wides, 84A (prefer them over road hogs even), and Cosmic Superflys 90A. I think the road hogs are too thick of a urethane and also too soft for most of the terrain I skate on outdoors. The Superflys are my favorite.

Wheel width doesnt mean the axle nuts wont fit, that has to do with the wheels hub/core spacing. The wider that bearing seat in the wheels (the gap between the bearings) the less room for the nuts. The wheels you have on there probably have a spacing of .400 most wheels for quads are .300. Cosmic superflys are about .320 to .340

Id recommend atom poisons or the superflys, whichever is cheaper. Bearings make minimal influence.
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Old August 18th, 2016, 10:20 PM   #36
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Get better wheels
skate faster so you have more momentum

When skating across rough terrain, its a lot like trying to walk through knee deep water, your core needs to firm up as the ground under you will feel like its dragging your legs back. You will need to ve prepared to drag your leg forward as you stride. Ever have a kid latch onto your foot while you try and walk? Its alot like that

Thats where good wheels come into play, high rebound urethane wheels with a core insert. Ive skated a lot of wheels indoors and out, probably the best ones are Atom poison wides, 84A (prefer them over road hogs even), and Cosmic Superflys 90A. I think the road hogs are too thick of a urethane and also too soft for most of the terrain I skate on outdoors. The Superflys are my favorite.

Wheel width doesnt mean the axle nuts wont fit, that has to do with the wheels hub/core spacing. The wider that bearing seat in the wheels (the gap between the bearings) the less room for the nuts. The wheels you have on there probably have a spacing of .400 most wheels for quads are .300. Cosmic superflys are about .320 to .340

Id recommend atom poisons or the superflys, whichever is cheaper. Bearings make minimal influence.
Hey Mort. No, I didn't mean the nut not going on. It's hard to explain. You know how you can slide a wheel up and down the axel? Say I take the wheel off my skate take the bearing out and put them in the other wheel that wheel now will not go down the axel smoothly. Then are hard to pull back off the axel again. Does that make sense?
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Old August 19th, 2016, 07:59 AM   #37
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Hey Mort. No, I didn't mean the nut not going on. It's hard to explain. You know how you can slide a wheel up and down the axel? Say I take the wheel off my skate take the bearing out and put them in the other wheel that wheel now will not go down the axel smoothly. Then are hard to pull back off the axel again. Does that make sense?

Yea, it does.

Its probably the bearing bores in the wheels being crappy. This is a VERY common occurance.

Here is where ABEC rated tolerances for bearings, hub tolerances and precision, as well as internal clearances of a bearing (the wiggle room inside the bearing itself) really comes into play.

Imagine a cutaway of a wheel, so it was cut in half and you could see how the bearing sat in the bearing bores...

Lets say that instead of looking like this ||-|| (GHETTO ILLUSTRATION ) one of the bores is messed up and holds the bearing out of alignment when compared to the other one so you end up with somethibg that sits in the wheels hib more like this //-|| .... over exageration of course but you get the idea.

That is likely why they will slide on smooth in one wheel and not in another. A wheel with a core insert is usually more precise, and will better hold the bearings perfectly parallel to each other, this allows the 8mm bore to be straight so the axle doesnt have issues sliding through.

Here ya go.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gPVBRc4-nTQ&autoplay=1
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Old August 19th, 2016, 09:14 AM   #38
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Yea, it does.

Its probably the bearing bores in the wheels being crappy. This is a VERY common occurance.

Here is where ABEC rated tolerances for bearings, hub tolerances and precision, as well as internal clearances of a bearing (the wiggle room inside the bearing itself) really comes into play.

Imagine a cutaway of a wheel, so it was cut in half and you could see how the bearing sat in the bearing bores...

Lets say that instead of looking like this ||-|| (GHETTO ILLUSTRATION ) one of the bores is messed up and holds the bearing out of alignment when compared to the other one so you end up with somethibg that sits in the wheels hib more like this //-|| .... over exageration of course but you get the idea.

That is likely why they will slide on smooth in one wheel and not in another. A wheel with a core insert is usually more precise, and will better hold the bearings perfectly parallel to each other, this allows the 8mm bore to be straight so the axle doesnt have issues sliding through.

Here ya go.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gPVBRc4-nTQ&autoplay=1
Right gotcha. Yeah that's exactly what it is. They are the best wheel I have as well. Krypto route 65 😢 lol. Are you in the US? I swear you guys get better whells than us in the uk.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 11:17 AM   #39
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How are you pushing your bearing into your wheels? It's possible they're just not getting seated properly.
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Old August 19th, 2016, 11:46 AM   #40
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How are you pushing your bearing into your wheels? It's possible they're just not getting seated properly.
Hi WJCIV I use a Swiss bones tool thingy lol I push them in as much as I can with my hand then the tool. They seem to be in the hole as it should be but obviously isnt
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