S k a t e L o g     F o r u m
Inline Skating and Quad Roller Skating
Forum Hosts: Jessica Wright | Kathie Fry

FOLLOW US: Our Blog | Facebook | Twitter | Email    


Home - Forum Index - Africa Skating - Asia Skating - Europe Skating - Oceania Skating - Pan America Skating - Roller_Rinks - Friend the SkateLog Forum in Facebook - SkateLog Forum on Facebook

Forum Administrators: Jessica Wright and Kathie Fry | Email Us
Access code for buying and selling subforums: "skates"
How To Get a User Account and Posting Privileges in the SkateLog Forum
Use Google to Search the SkateLog Forum

Go Back   SkateLog Forum > General Interest Skating Forums > Main Skating Forum
FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Main Skating Forum General discussions about all types of skating, including how to skate, places to skate, skating events, skating equipment, and any topic that does not fall under one of our other skating forums.

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old September 13th, 2017, 01:28 AM   #1
volvo_man
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Default Reidell r3 with probe plates don't pivot

I got these skates on the cheap and good thing. I added jump bars to stiffen the plates and all blue bushings. I even put the lock nuts on upside down to get them to loosen up. Problem I have now is when the trucks pivot about half way to the boot it's still pretty stiff cause the pivot ball is maxed out. So how can I fix this? Or should I save my time and buy some sunlite plates? I mostly do speed skating and a little jam.
volvo_man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 15th, 2017, 07:53 AM   #2
Mort
Sk8 Ninja
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Huntington Wv
Posts: 3,178
Default

First, ditch that jump bar. This frees up room on the kingpin.

Second , get some suspension grease to put on the pivot pins rubber bushed office, and on the cushions where they contact the truck. If you are using SG Super cushions., make sure the side with the ribs is the one you grease, and the smooth side sits on the washer/retainer.

Third, for less ramp up resistance, use washers instead of the retainer cups. Or even use a washer with less OD than the cushion

If you want more agility, use a narrower wheel with a lip. Such as a Rollerbones turbo wheel.
__________________
Home rink: Roll-A-Rama in Huntington Wv.
"Focus on form and speed is a byproduct, focus on speed and falling is a byproduct." - Matguy

Last edited by Mort; September 30th, 2017 at 07:28 AM.
Mort is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 29th, 2017, 02:34 AM   #3
volvo_man
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 2
Default

Had to add the jump bar cause the plastic plate has way to much twist in it for me. I will try the grease and swap out for the washers though, didn't think of that. I was holding off on wheels cause not sure what hardness I wanted. Thank you for the ideas.
volvo_man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old September 30th, 2017, 08:03 AM   #4
Mort
Sk8 Ninja
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Huntington Wv
Posts: 3,178
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by volvo_man View Post
Had to add the jump bar cause the plastic plate has way to much twist in it for me. I will try the grease and swap out for the washers though, didn't think of that. I was holding off on wheels cause not sure what hardness I wanted. Thank you for the ideas.
I had a sunlite, skip that garbage lol, it really is no better than what you're using now IMO.

The jump bar wont really keep the plate from twisting much. Softer suspension will. Also, plate twist is not a huge deal. Most of the twist actually happens from the boots on those plates being completely limp, that is, if we are talking about R3 boots. They're so weak its crazy.

There's some mods you can do to stiffen it up before buying some nice gear. 1 is remount them with better hardware. Like Tee nuts. They have a lot more area to hold onto the boot. Using good washers on the bolts from underneath can help hold the plate to the boot with better clamping area.(on tee nut mounts, the nuts are inside the boots)


2 is during a remount, sand the boots sole and the top of the plate, add shoe goo and glue them together. Find a way to clamp the boot and the plate together while the glue cures for 24 hours, full cure happens about 72 hours later. I personally like to do most of the work in 1 to 2 days for this and the following then let it cure for at least a week.

3 is resole the boot. Basically, you cut small knotches in the boots plastic sole where the stitching lines touch the sole. These serve as alignment spots for merging the 2 parts later. Pry everything apart gently, you acetone the places where the boot and sole will be rejoined to remove the original junk glue. Sand the bottom of the boot and the sole to give max surface area for the shoe goo to bond the parts together, 1 more wipe down with acetone, then glue them. Preferably standing in the boot to press the excess out. Wipe smooth around the edge.

I go 1 step further when fixing kids skates that have blowouts. I get some canvas and sand up the side of the boot a little and the edge is the sole, then cut a strip of canvas for reinforcing the sidewalls of the outside of the boot. I cut the strip, and glue the boot and press glue into 1 side of the canvas, wiping away glue excess at the top, and letting it sit at the bottom of the sole. This also helps to keep the glue from cracking at the boot to sole merger. The other side that is visible doesnt have the glued look, and if one wanted, could be written on with a paint marker. I usually do a 1 to 1.5 inch wrap. I let it hang over the edge of the boots sole and cut off the excess after it dries. It makes for a pretty clean finish when done right. Even the straps can be done that way. Since they tend to get jacked up. You can pop the seam on the stitching and pull it away, apply a layer of glue and put the Velcro back down.

Carrera skates take this method ALOT better, since they are leather, and the glue can be pressed firmly I to the leather after acetone is used to remove the white or black surface finish. The glue theyy use at the factory simply does not bond well to the plastics or the treated leather surfaces on bootts like rock gt50s, carreras, r3's, or virtually any other boot that uses glue.

Many times theres almost no glue to be found after I've taken some apart. Wondering how they were held together in the first place lol


Some people frown on doing things this way, but hell. For about 16 to 20 bucks and some time spent over the week and 1 week to cure, I can make a cheap skate run with top of the line gear.(excluding wheels of course)

This gives one the ability to save for gear, (while having a setup that does not consume as much of your power from flexing.) like a proline, arius, advantage, or royal, (insert 300+$ plate here lol) or a good wheel.

If you want to get nice wheels that actually keeps resale. Bury Bont royal assassins, or anything poured by Scott corey. Aka Aussie scott. Coreyskates.com is his site , and his wheels are the best, period. Rollerbones turbos cant touch a royal assassin, I've had 88, 93 and 97 RBT'S, and the 1 set of 95A assassins is better than all of them.
__________________
Home rink: Roll-A-Rama in Huntington Wv.
"Focus on form and speed is a byproduct, focus on speed and falling is a byproduct." - Matguy
Mort is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.