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Quad Roller Skating Forum Discussions about quad roller skates and any other quad skating discussions that do not seem appropriate for one of our other forums.

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Old April 19th, 2019, 04:53 PM   #21
wired
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Sometimes those China bearings just have bad manufacturing. I've seen many cages malformed. So a heat treatment probably got cut short.
Two sets purchased year or so apart both failed in the same way. I quit saying good things about them.


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Qube are great, but the reason I don't reccomend them is because they do not have much room for misalignments like the reds do.
So the solution to equipment problems is to use worse bearings?


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As for micros... I eat them for breakfast...
Let's see some pictures of failed micros.

Without pix it didn't happen in the Internet!

.
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Old April 19th, 2019, 05:11 PM   #22
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Two sets purchased year or so apart both failed in the same way. I quit saying good things about them.




So the solution to equipment problems is to use worse bearings?




Let's see some pictures of failed micros.

Without pix it didn't happen in the Internet!

.
Even though they get dirty easily, the reds wont fail by the time someone will be able to afford quality parts. However you stick qubes in some of the plastic hub bed wheels or even sole aluminum hubs which have very slight alignment issues, your roll will suffer.

Yea, as bad as that may be. They are the better bearings at that price range. I wouldn't even buy them nor recommend a bearing purchase if the user has a set which currently work. But if they had a second set of wheels (cheaper ones not scotts/zombies/shamans etc) I'd still recommend the reds. Even though I hate them for convincing the skate world that "abed rating doesnt matter" which is horse sh!t.

Micros?
I'll have to dig them out of the trash. Lol. The cages failed on 2, and the raceway wore on another 2 that the cages didnt fail on. Steel caged for those, and I got some bont swiss 688 that are already quite scratchy with only 4 sessions on them. Recently changed trucks out that had a more proper axle shoulder. It should help fix the problem.

Some of the "better" 688 bearings ... I bought a new set, lightly oiled, ran them for 1 session and blackened EVERY phenolic retainer. They were wrecked. I cleaned them up real good and relived, seem ok now. I use no less than 10w30 synthetic motor oil in them anymore. Sewing machine oil or uncle Charlie's and others too, do not have enough wear protection at all. Synthetic motor oil > Overpriced bearing lube all day, every day.

I got pictures of some 688 on my FB somewhere, not failed on that but you can see the wear , wellx see the retainer caked with metal that's worn from heavy use.

Edit



Picture work? This is the bearings that had 3 sessions on them, about 10 hours of skating.

Getting the link for the others.


Here is the comparison of an inner bearing vs an outer bearing both cleaned at the same time, same lube, etc. Inner bearing gets the brunt on the old axles, will see how the new axles work. Although the jesa 688 swiss steel bearings only have 7 balls not 9....


Here's a good one.



Bottom left, cleaned and oiled, top left, never cleaned. The ones on the right, also never cleaned. Big difference in wear eh?
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Old April 20th, 2019, 05:37 PM   #23
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Even though they get dirty easily, the reds wont fail by the time someone will be able to afford quality parts.
Two sets failed for me after about the same amount of use.

Dirty isn't the problem. Finish failure is.


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Micros?
I'll have to dig them out of the trash. Lol. The cages failed on 2, and the raceway wore on another 2 that the cages didnt fail on. Steel caged for those, and I got some bont swiss 688 that are already quite scratchy with only 4 sessions on them. Recently changed trucks out that had a more proper axle shoulder. It should help fix the problem.

Some of the "better" 688 bearings ... I bought a new set, lightly oiled, ran them for 1 session and blackened EVERY phenolic retainer. They were wrecked. I cleaned them up real good and relived, seem ok now. I use no less than 10w30 synthetic motor oil in them anymore. Sewing machine oil or uncle Charlie's and others too, do not have enough wear protection at all. Synthetic motor oil > Overpriced bearing lube all day, every day.
Three things:

1. I run 7mm so there is more room for bearing in a 167 vs a 688.

2. As small as a 688 is can't imagine opening them up to fiddle with them is a good idea. Due to size there is very little room for error and any contamination would have a greater effect than on a 22mm OD bearing. I have never opened mine and they work great.

3. I have seen you skate. You don't skate like most other skaters so while you may "eat them for breakfast" many others might not. I'm not a snack bar skater and tend to run fairly hard for around 6 hours a week. Since our experiences are so different I'd think abut these three items before saying micro bearings are something other skaters shouldn't consider.


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Old April 21st, 2019, 08:51 AM   #24
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1. The 167 vs 688 will both have the same raceway depths. Both their load ratings are the same on any manufacturers website. Well 167s dont exist outside of Jesa though.


Well, it's not so much just me. Virtually anyone subjecting them to hard cornering combined with harsh hockey stops or vibrations like a single foot plow, that coupled with the arius plates having the bearings sitting at different heights( axle OD discrepancys...7.94mm or on the inner bearing and 7.3 to 7.5mm on the outer bearing) really adds to the abuse.

Soon the new axles with a 22mm shoulder on the trucks I have in currently will tell if that has helped.

Imo the bearings should be fixed in the hubs, with an appropriate spacer between. I need a precise press to configure that though, which I do not have. :/ essentially need a bearing press I can clamp down and let some loctite cure so nothing moves out of alignment during that process.

I need a bearing press with a nice 7.98 to 7.99 "axle" a 15.99 mm plug press fit on one end, and a plug for the other side where I can tighten a wing nut or other nut to hold a bit of compression while it sets up. Then I can have true load sharing. If that didnt stop the wear issues, nothing would.
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Old April 25th, 2019, 12:47 AM   #25
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1. The 167 vs 688 will both have the same raceway depths. Both their load ratings are the same on any manufacturers website. Well 167s dont exist outside of Jesa though.


Well, it's not so much just me. Virtually anyone subjecting them to hard cornering combined with harsh hockey stops or vibrations like a single foot plow, that coupled with the arius plates having the bearings sitting at different heights( axle OD discrepancys...7.94mm or on the inner bearing and 7.3 to 7.5mm on the outer bearing) really adds to the abuse.

Soon the new axles with a 22mm shoulder on the trucks I have in currently will tell if that has helped.

Imo the bearings should be fixed in the hubs, with an appropriate spacer between. I need a precise press to configure that though, which I do not have. :/ essentially need a bearing press I can clamp down and let some loctite cure so nothing moves out of alignment during that process.

I need a bearing press with a nice 7.98 to 7.99 "axle" a 15.99 mm plug press fit on one end, and a plug for the other side where I can tighten a wing nut or other nut to hold a bit of compression while it sets up. Then I can have true load sharing. If that didnt stop the wear issues, nothing would.
And how do you get them apart again?
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Old April 25th, 2019, 05:07 AM   #26
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And how do you get them apart again?
It's not hard to get them out again if one knows what they're doing but it will hold them enough while striding.

No need to get them out unless one is going to fail or has failed..
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Old May 18th, 2019, 05:03 PM   #27
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Well since you didn't believe it.

Also for 7 or 8mm 167/688's they carry the same strength. Their load ratings are identical.

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Last edited by Mort; August 26th, 2019 at 09:49 AM.
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