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Roller Dance and Session Skating Forum Discussions about roller dancing, jamskating, rexing, rink session skating, dance circle skating, and similar types of recreational indoor and outdoor skate dancing .

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Old December 18th, 2016, 05:15 PM   #1
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Thumbs up Money-Is-No-Object Jam Plate: Discuss

For clarification: I'm not talking about 'break-skating', to me that seems pretty straight forward - any -long- plate w/toe-plug and crank the action down as tight as physics will allow (although that could be an interesting discussion too). I'm talking about floor work and toe-jam work.

To be honest, I'm expecting a lot of Roll-Line responses, but it will be interesting to see...

I don't think ' likkwid ' is on the forum anymore, but I'd be especially curious to get his take on this topic.
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Old December 19th, 2016, 03:36 AM   #2
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Proline, reactors, pretty much any 15 deg or less plate. Action isnt needed much, as the "flair" that produces a good looking move is done by using your feets positioning/pivoting to make the skates carve.

Plastic or metal doesn't matter. And actually a lot of people will skate on plastic since its just a "softer" feel. Theres no worry about the types of distortion a weaker plastic plate presents during speed skating, since the forces arent the same.

Plastic plates can have the action cranked down and since theres some more flex in the plastic rather than 7000 series alu like say, a proline, they will start to distort a little before the action is used. Since the plates flex more readily, the kingpins are less likely to break. Seen some crazy stuff on plastic plates.

Firm suspension, a somewhat flexy plate and boot is very forgiving, and small errors in form during tricks are extremely easy to hide. Also, sometimes truck action gets stuck a little where it wont return to neutral every time (grease fixes that usually), so firm suspension tightened up with that flexing plate also reduces the likelyhood of cushions deforming, sliding, then getting stuck while being used (action), ya know, instead of returning to center. Any skateboarder has probably seen this afterlanding hard on one side of the board, getting wheel bite, and having to bail out. Then their board turns in circles as it trys to roll away.
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Old December 19th, 2016, 03:30 PM   #3
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Default Replace rubber cushions

Originally Posted by Mort View Post
Also, sometimes truck action gets stuck a little where it won't return to neutral every time (grease fixes that usually), so firm suspension tightened up with that flexing plate also reduces the likelihood of cushions deforming, sliding, then getting stuck while being used (action), ya know, instead of returning to center.
If the skate plate will accept urethane cushions, use the hardest available and just snug the kingpin. They center much faster than rubber and last for longer periods of time.

Keep rollin
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Old December 20th, 2016, 06:52 PM   #4
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I have never used Roll-Lines. I have jammed on Pacer Crown, Chicago speed, Chicago figure, POS Sketchers, Avenger white and Avanti white plates. The Avanti is the best, the Avenger and Chicago figure are the worst (too turny, loosey-goosey for me).

Avanti white is currently selling for ≈ $190, so it is more “mid-priced” than “money-is-no object.” It has a 10⁰ kingpin and I finished it off with hard cushions and tight action. Wheel bite is unlikely because the bottom of the plate to the center of the axle is 5 centimeters. It has a solid, stable feel to it and I like that everything stays in adjustment and remains tight. Going out of adjustment/coming loose is a pet peeve of mine. Also like that it’s made in U.S.A. Buy American!
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 01:47 AM   #5
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I doubt you could go wrong with that $1000 Roll-Line plate.
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Old December 22nd, 2016, 01:10 PM   #6
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Have only jammed on a few plates, which are Roll-Line Mistral and Snyder Advantage. I love them both, due to the not so steep kingpin angles. Both plates are in the middle of the road for pricing (both run for anywhere from $400-$500, depending on the vendor).

I have tried skating on 45 degree plates and didn't like them at all.

So, this thread is all about personal preference. What may be the gold standard for some, will be in the throw-away pile for others.
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Old December 25th, 2016, 07:15 AM   #7
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I would go with Paioli Cristal for jam. It is designed like a Roll Line with Atlas kingpins. It has click action adjustment for the cushions just like the Atlas. I find having the action set from the plate side to be very convenient because it easily allows me to completely disassemble and reassemble the truck and have the action restored without needing to make any adjustments.
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Old January 1st, 2017, 06:32 PM   #8
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Question Paioli Cristal vs Roll-Line ???? for jam?

Originally Posted by Gee View Post
I would go with Paioli Cristal for jam. It is designed like a Roll Line with Atlas kingpins.
Very interesting!

Which Roll-Line plate model would you say is its closest cousin and what makes the Cristal the superior of the two?

Where did you source your Paioli Cristal plate?
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Old February 7th, 2017, 11:30 PM   #9
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Not adding much to the discussion since I haven't tried much, but I've skated SG Classics, Centuries, and recently acquired a Powerdyne Reactor plate.

Prefer the Reactor of the three. Noticeably lighter, MUCH easier to adjust the trucks, and feels extremely stable & responsive to my input. My Centuries seemed less predictable, and required regular truck adjustment .
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Old February 13th, 2017, 06:08 PM   #10
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Default Describe your Jam Skating..


First: High Lower Mass ChuckB. One of these days I will skate with you again.

I have seen skaters skate on all sorts of stuff and do various Jam Skating. Sometimes we might call some of them Break Dancing. We even used to have the jam Skating guy on SkateLog. Chuck is his name.

The most important to me and hopefully your skatelog skaters is to know what kind of moves you want to do Jam Skating.

If you have videos of some of the greats that you want to copy or improve on that would be good information.

Here is Oscar: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SePgjew3okM

Yours in Skating, MA/NY Skating Dave
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Old December 18th, 2017, 07:35 AM   #11
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Default Hardly back for a day, but happy to give input!

To answer that, we never really insisted on running overly long plates, or cranking down our truck settings, in fact, those are both a matter of preference, but still pretty much a resounding "no-go"....

But, I've owned more plates than I'd like to type up for the sake of time.

Realistically, an aluminum plate is always best, but most jamskaters can't really afford them.

I'll highlight a few collective notes that have came from the jamskating community throughout the years regarding the most popular choices:

*Roll-lines aren't a terrible choice, but the sharp turn-in can make things a bit sketchy. Also, the strange sizing (metric), unavailability of parts locally (for most), and high price are particularly off-putting to many.
(Fun fact: the plug angle actually causes dance plugs to SHEAR, when doing plug spins which is a PITA to remove, due to the fact that American made dance plugs are standard thread, and everything on the RL plates are metric thread)

*Pro-lines are the original jamskating plate. The toe plug distance/angle, kingpin angle, plus light weight, and overall strength made these the plate "du jour" during jamskating's inception. When parts started disappearing to keep them going, skaters started to make the switch to either power-tracs, or roll-lines. The re-release really does the originals justice, leaving nothing to be desired, and we're well worth the wait. (Nifty tidbit: the plug standoff sits further forward than a power-trac, so plug spins were not only more easily accomplished, but also protected the toes of your boots better than a power-trac, without having to buy a plate that mounted end-to-end)

*Power-tracs were the runners up to the throne that pro-lines once held for quite some time. Sharing SIMILAR dimensions and construction methods, as well as the same base plate material, they were pretty good for the price point. They offered more readily part availability than the previous 2, and they were a lower price point. There were downsides, however. Of course at the time, only plastic trucks were available. Also, the plugs sit very close to the front wheel in relation to the front wheels, which results in dragging and subsequently, wearing through the toe of the boot. The solution to this is to run a longer plate, but for many, this isnt an option, or they just dont care. Lol....

*reactors, please read the overall comments on the pro-line, it really does not differ much, other than aesthetics, and a negligible amount of weight. Still a quality plate.

*Snyder advantage - I've owned 3 sets of these, and I love them. There are a few downsides to them, however. The cushions retain their position when lifting off. Not a good thing to find out when you're trying to land almost anything on a different edge, but sure makes for good entertainment! Also, the plates are left and right foot oriented. This doesn't mean much of anything except the plug standoff taper inward toward the opposite foot. Combined with the same close orientation as the powertrac, accelerated toe wear happens often. High price point keeps about 95% of jamskaters away.
(Crazy DYK: around 2004, the first documented aluminum trucks for the powertrac were machined from Snyder advantage parts. They belonged to my brother, Kyle Cumper)

That's really as far as I can go for the moment, unless someone wants specific input on a particular plate... in which case, I do not object.

I've owned all of the above, and then numerous others. There were even a few that were prototypes, made who knows where. Lol....

But, I personally enjoy a power-Trac. It feels normal to me. Even when the trucks are let out all the way, I still feel like I can reign them in. Not to mention, there's always plenty that machining can always fix

The more spent on equipment, doesn't always translate to better, however. I've been bested several times over by some skaters that ran nothing more than probes.

What's most important is finding what hits all the marks, or at least comes the closest.

Hope this helps!
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