Axle Help

[Mystic]

I have a couple of skates. One of them has a cheap plastic plate with metal trucks. Problem is the axles are loose. You can slide them back and forth with your fingers. They don't come all the way out. Just back and for about a quarter of an inch or so. Anybody have any thoughts of fixing this?

[Mort]

Originally Posted by Mystic

I have a couple of skates. One of them has a cheap plastic plate with metal trucks. Problem is the axles are loose. You can slide them back and forth with your fingers. They don't come all the way out. Just back and for about a quarter of an inch or so. Anybody have any thoughts of fixing this?

Red loctite.
Put some on 1 side with that axle perpendicular to the ground as if the skate was laying on its side. You just need a rink around the axle shaft, and to wiggle the axle back and forth to work as much in 1 side as possible. If there is a good play in the diameter where it can slide back and forth the loctite will come out the other side. If it doesnt after tapping. the axle in and out about 50 times , you'll need to flip the truck over and do the same for the other side.

After that you'll want to center the axle in the truck and let it cure for a day.

[rwsz]

sometimes u can just turn it around and put it in the other direction if the burrs aren't dead center ,,,,if not u need new axles or just put up with it that way

[ursle]

Originally Posted by rwsz

sometimes u can just turn it around and put it in the other direction if the burrs aren't dead center ,,,,if not u need new axles or just put up with it that way

I'd consider getting in good light, identifying the serrated side of the hanger and clamping it with vice grips, big suckers, just need a tiny bit of bite to hold the axle still.
Last bearing cleaning with my D/A10 to D/A45 conversion with ti parts, one axle was floating, I just centered it and tightened the axle nuts, next time I'll squeeze it a bit.

Mort's idea of red loctite is good, I'd use blue so it's not frozen, just secure.

Also roughing up the axle serrations, digging out the grooves a bit to add meat to the equation, metal takes up space, might be a fix.

[fierocious1]

Originally Posted by Mystic

I have a couple of skates. One of them has a cheap plastic plate with metal trucks. Problem is the axles are loose. You can slide them back and forth with your fingers. They don't come all the way out. Just back and for about a quarter of an inch or so. Anybody have any thoughts of fixing this?

What Mort said.
My kingpins on my skates do not use lock nuts to lock them down. I install the kingpins in the plates using red locktite. Let it set a day or even two. Red locktite is very tough, you will have to heat the axles and trucks to get the axles out. But they will stay put

[ursle]

Originally Posted by fierocious1

What Mort said.
My kingpins on my skates do not use lock nuts to lock them down. I install the kingpins in the plates using red locktite. Let it set a day or even two. Red locktite is very tough, you will have to heat the axles and trucks to get the axles out. But they will stay put

Ding, ding, ding.

We have a new Armillido, he (dillo) broke two shoulders using home made aluminum Kingpins, before learning the hard way, not besmirching him, just supplying the facts.

Please, "skateloggers", don't loctite your king pins, loctite ing an axle that's bolted down(in) is one thing, a kingpin is quite another.

"Took a few hard falls last year".


I bet, got any more really, really bad advice?

[fierocious1]

The guy on post number 6, he don't know much about skates but he knows a lot about shafts and mountings. He should stick to what he knows.

I build my own plates, test them, and skate them. Never had a plate break, never broken a kingpin(grade 8 steel). Had my trucks modified for titanium flip axles(DA45s), thanks to Wild42. Low ramp up cushion setup for maximum traction. Also extra clearance and able to use wheels easily over 70mm for outdoor skating.

Bar on fixture to be milled.
[IMG]Finishing some tall cushion 45 plates. These were started last year and I just ran out of time. So shimming will be needed anyway to get the geometry corrected. These are a long frame for outdoor skating. by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

machined plates that mount to vented inline skate boots.
[IMG]20161228_200410 by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

mounted complete plates with 3/4" cushions for nice ride and handling. plate has adjustable turn rates to slow down or speed up reaction.
[IMG]Finished! by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

finished skates
[IMG]Newest frame. 1 1/4" beam. Larger holes. Primary session skates. by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

Outdoor skate with R4 boots
[IMG]Long frame for outdoor skating. 84a 76mm Zombie Hawgs by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

Luiginos on outdoor setup
[IMG]Luigino Ultra Challenge boots on my inline plates. Excellent clearance for big outdoor wheels by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

skates I built when testing setups before I started making my own plates were using locktite as well. So no need to worry about loctite coming loose if it is used correctly.

[ursle]

Originally Posted by fierocious1

The guy on post number 6, he don't know much about skates but he knows a lot about shafts and mountings. He should stick to what he knows.

Wow, this homophobe makes gay references in every post, is it a QAnon (QAnon is a far-right conspiracy theory detailing a supposed secret plot by an alleged "deep state" against U.S. President Donald Trump and his supporters.) thing, what would
Freud say?
I think he'd call for the whhhhaaammmmbulence.




Skates I built when testing setups before I started making my own plates were using locktite as well. So no need to worry about loctite coming loose if it is used correctly.

Again, terrible advice.

Pretty pictures, bright and shiny, like "Dillo".

Hmm, that moniker fits.

[fierocious1]

[IMG]2019-09-08_09-15-19 by fierocious1, on Flickr[/IMG]

LOL TOOO LATE LMAO!

[polishedball]

Betting my advice it way off, but being new I had this in a used pair of skates I rebuilt (ordered the new truck an axle as well) but in the short term I stuck the truck in a large vice and gave it a squueze and the axle tightened right up.

[fierocious1]

Originally Posted by polishedball

Betting my advice it way off, but being new I had this in a used pair of skates I rebuilt (ordered the new truck an axle as well) but in the short term I stuck the truck in a large vice and gave it a squueze and the axle tightened right up.

If it worked short term, well I see no issue. If it were a crack in the cushion pocket area or split/cracked pivot, no way I'd skate them.

[rwsz]

fier 1 now that is talent and good machinery,,,,nice

[fierocious1]

Originally Posted by rwsz

fier 1 now that is talent and good machinery,,,,nice

Thanks. It takes a while to get it all planned out, then setup. I'm lucky enough to have 2 small mills, 1 dedicated to frames(DA45) only. Setup never gets torn down. But making frames on a manual mill takes lots of time.

The real talent is in making trucks, they are tough to do. Making plates is much easier.

[ursle]

Originally Posted by polishedball

Betting my advice it way off, but being new I had this in a used pair of skates I rebuilt (ordered the new truck an axle as well) but in the short term I stuck the truck in a large vice and gave it a squeeze and the axle tightened right up.

Exactly, this isn't rocket science, it simple common sense and metal.

[Mort]

Originally Posted by ursle

Ding, ding, ding.

We have a new Armillido, he (dillo) broke two shoulders using home made aluminum Kingpins, before learning the hard way, not besmirching him, just supplying the facts.

Please, "skateloggers", don't loctite your king pins, loctite ing an axle that's bolted down(in) is one thing, a kingpin is quite another.

"Took a few hard falls last year".


I bet, got any more really, really bad advice?

Fierocious1 didn't say anything about using Aluminum kingpins...

His point was bout the strength of red loctite. His homemade plate uses threaded rod thst he put loctite on nd didnt need a locknut, allowing him to run a taller cushion plate side. The loctite holds the kingpin in place so the adjuster nut on the end wont turn the kingpin, pretty simple.

Also, you WANT the axle "frozen" in the truck. It should not move or hve any play why so ever. Blue is not strong enough. You need green or red and they need to be the oil resistant versions.

Theres nothing wrong with his post or his setup. If he ever breaks a kingpin , extracting it may be a little more difficult, but not an issue for the mechanically inclined.

[ursle]

Originally Posted by Mort

Fierocious1 didn't say anything about using Aluminum kingpins...

Not using a lock nut on a weighted part is just as stupid as two broken shoulders due to ineptness.


His point was bout the strength of red loctite. His homemade plate uses threaded rod thst he put loctite on nd didnt need a locknut, allowing him to run a taller cushion plate side.

Have to guess at your meaning, it's a meaningless jumble of incomprehension.

Looking at this picture, I see no lack of room for tall cushions, the top of the upper cone is hard plastic instead of a locknut, brilliant.




The loctite holds the kingpin in place so the adjuster nut on the end wont turn the kingpin, pretty simple.

Simple, yes that's a good description.


Also, you WANT the axle "frozen" in the truck. It should not move or hve any play why so ever. Blue is not strong enough. You need green or red and they need to be the oil resistant versions.

This ain't rocket science, by design the axles aren't frozen in the truck from the factory, blue loctite is adequate to hold an axle and it doesn't require heat to remove it.


Theres nothing wrong with his post or his setup. If he ever breaks a kingpin , extracting it may be a little more difficult, but not an issue for the mechanically inclined.

In your opinion, and your opinion is terrible so far, hmm, here we have the two "inline roller skaters", not roller skaters not inline skaters just morphs, and oh' look? no nuts.

[fierocious1]

Originally Posted by Mort

Fierocious1 didn't say anything about using Aluminum kingpins...

His point was bout the strength of red loctite. His homemade plate uses threaded rod thst he put loctite on nd didnt need a locknut, allowing him to run a taller cushion plate side. The loctite holds the kingpin in place so the adjuster nut on the end wont turn the kingpin, pretty simple.

Also, you WANT the axle "frozen" in the truck. It should not move or hve any play why so ever. Blue is not strong enough. You need green or red and they need to be the oil resistant versions.

Theres nothing wrong with his post or his setup. If he ever breaks a kingpin , extracting it may be a little more difficult, but not an issue for the mechanically inclined.

The setup in the pics uses 3/4" cushions. However I had been testing 1" cushions on that particular plate. Tried straight barrels, hourglass configuration and finally settled on 3/4" tapered/cones. Taller cushions allow for manipulation of turn radius @ certain plate tilt angles. Which can add to kick back or reduce it, at the end of the push. My kps are using all the threaded portion, locktited into place, so no need for urkle delicacies.... the plastic spacer is just that, a spacer. Can be removed for future testing, which is what they were designed for. These were my first machined test plates. I made several more but ended up using these the most. Lighter than SG White Magnums.

People with minimal mechanical skills, well engineering is way over their comprehension. These were designed with future testing in mind.

[Mort]

Originally Posted by ursle

In your opinion, and your opinion is terrible so far, hmm, here we have the two "inline roller skaters", not roller skaters not inline skaters just morphs, and oh' look? no nuts.

You truly are foolish.

How is red loctite not good? You DON'T want the loctite to fail, you DONT want the axle to move. Blue loctite is not strong enough. Ideally you would want green loctite, compound 609, which is made for filling the radial discrepancy on things like bearings. It augments press fit. However it's not cheap.

Red versions are what is the best for this job at hand, no doubt what so ever. Guess what I have in my skates right now? Swapped axles. Old were pressed out new were inserted. Guess what compound was used to do this? Red loctite 263, oil tolerant version.

The assembly that fierocious1 is using HAS a locknut. It uses the standard nut with a nylock ring that nearly all kingpins use, the locknut you are fusing over, which is called a "jam nut" has been replaced by red loctite, which is more than adequate for this task.

Now let's say the loctite managed to fail... Do you know what would happen? The suspension would become loosened, NOTICEABLY. Far before any failure would happen, it would be addressed. Simply put it does not need a jam nut because of the way it is set up.

You probably still think avenger plates are bad with the way their kingpins are, even after years and years of abusive skating from derby players, session skaters, outdoor skaters, etc the amount of failures of those plates is ridiculously low. Also NONE have issues with the kingpins aside from sometimes they break, but that will happen when people put red cushions in them, crank the action down, weigh 270+ and jump large distance at high speeds.

You're just full of hate and disgust, and only wish to harass others.

Also I've been skating both quads and inlines for a long time, even ice when I get a chance, but all that is irrelevant.

Theres nothing at all wrong with using an inline boot for a quad skate. Hes not the first to have done so. The biggest issue is trying to mount them. For Fierocious1, his plate was designed to be mounted to the boot. For others, they would need an adapter plate. Maybe I should make some for my inline speed boots I dont use?

[ursle]

Trom, you go ahead and pretend to be doing rocket science and you go ahead and put red loctite on a King pin instead of a lock nut, but please don't advise anyone else to do so, your stupidity shouldn't harm others.

Axles are pressure fitted and can be removed, blue loctite or a Squeeze with pressure are adequate (KISS keep it simple stupid).

[Mort]

Originally Posted by ursle

Trom, you go ahead and pretend to be doing rocket science and you go ahead and put red loctite on a King pin instead of a lock nut, but please don't advise anyone else to do so, your stupidity shouldn't harm others.

Axles are pressure fitted and can be removed, blue loctite or a Squeeze with pressure are adequate (KISS keep it simple stupid).

I think we all know axles are press fit, and the knurl holds them in place.

When did any of us recommend using red loctite on a kingpin? We didnt. The only thing any of us did was vouch for the strength of red loctite being able to hold assemblys together with adequate strength, and was strong enough to resist the cycles of force a kingpin undergoes that has even been known to loosen jam nuts.

No one is doing any kind of "rocket science" you're simply making a big deal out of inconsequential things.

The OP is looking to fox cheap parts, reliably. Blue doesn't hold up, The red will.

No one is going to spend time on axle swapping for a cheap plate when a new truck could be bought.

My guess is it's a lebeda Torque plate. Their trucks are notorious for coming loose. Blue 242/243 will fail. Green(609) is not cheap, so the best solution for fixing inexpensive parts is the oil tolerant red version 263.

I suppose the machinist who does the work I need on my skates is a fool then? He only rebuilds everything from model T's to v12 jaguar engines for a living.

The only thing axles need is to not move around in the truck. Essentially frozen in. Most trucks are not cast around the axles. Hell you can't press a proline axle out, does that make it bad? Lol.

Go on and tell me how one of the best plates out there is trash now because their axles are nearly unremoveable.