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Old July 2nd, 2015, 05:28 AM   #1
JimPeccable
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Default Long-stem toe stops

Iím trying to find an extra-long-stem toe stop (i.e. 35-40mm!) ó I prefer < 2 fingers under the back wheels.

No skate brand seems to produce stoppers with stems longer than 25-30mm long.

The best workaround I could find is the Crazy Bounce. The thick side profile of the rubber stopper adds about 5mm to the total length (when compared to Crazy Blocks).

Any existing product recommendations (other than Crazy Bounce)?
Anyone know of new products in development?
Anyone had success in the workshop (e.g. welding an extension thread on)?
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Old July 2nd, 2015, 03:24 PM   #2
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Hi JimPeccable,

I've run my Stops 1/4" or less from the Floor for decades.

The only two Stoppers I've found that allow that with my Skates (see Sig) are the Snyder Big Stops and the Sure Grip Big Stops. Both have about 1" length Stems and very large Rubber Stoppers, with a total length of about 2.5" for both units.

I go thru a couple of sets a year the way I use them. I don't wear them "out", just "down', to where I can not have them low enough.


Harold
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Old July 9th, 2015, 04:51 PM   #3
llama of death
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Other option is to make your own extender. I used 5/8-16 coupling nut (aluminum if you can find it)

cut my new stoppers to be 5 full threads long (minimum length)

inserted it into the coupling fully and drilled a hole through to put a retaining wire into, used steel 16ga bailing wire, though that may get replaced with a retaining pin or other expansion pin (we will see)

then 5/8-16 aluminum threaded rod or bolt.

set the thread into the plate as far as it would go as that is the "high setting"

trimmed the threaded section to insert into the coupling five turns to fit the stopper

adjust [cut off/trim] the coupler until the skate is at the angle I want it to be. For me that is two fingers at the back, assuming the stopper sits flat or is worn flat already.

(I like my stoppers to have full contact, IE be flat and fully touching the ground when adjusted properly.)

I am working on a product concept to solve this problem in one neat package. though the real solution is make long threads longer. I mean over length so they have to be trimmed to length, though even that you should have a 5/8-16 die from a tap and die set, to clean the treads after cutting to length.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 02:55 AM   #4
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Smile

Awesome advice, Llama. I'm going to experiment with this coupling idea too. If you have success with the new product, let me know. I'll buy it!
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:27 PM   #5
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The problem with the coupling idea is that you end up having as many as three places where the toe stop can loosen - @plate and at either end of the coupling.

If your plate has a thread pinching socket scheme with a pinch bolt, this is best, because if not, then you will be needing THREE (3) thin jam nuts stacked along the assembly to ensure nothing comes loose.

To get just ONE jam nut on assembly, you can glue upper end of the coupling to the thread stud that goes into the plate, since that combo should never need to be separated after initial assembly. Then you can just have one jam nut at the lower end of coupling for the stop thread adjustment positioning.

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Old July 13th, 2015, 04:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armadillo View Post
The problem with the coupling idea is that you end up having as many as three places where the toe stop can loosen - @plate and at either end of the coupling.

If your plate has a thread pinching socket scheme with a pinch bolt, this is best, because if not, then you will be needing THREE (3) thin jam nuts stacked along the assembly to ensure nothing comes loose.

To get just ONE jam nut on assembly, you can glue upper end of the coupling to the thread stud that goes into the plate, since that combo should never need to be separated after initial assembly. Then you can just have one jam nut at the lower end of coupling for the stop thread adjustment positioning.

-Armadillo
No jamb nuts. Pins.

Drill a small hole clean through the coupling and the housing both top and bottom. the only place there it can turn when pins are installed is at the the exposed male threads just like a normal stopper.

SMALL HOLE. don't over do it, by drilling a hole we are reducing strength, just big enough that the pin is thick enough to not shear off.
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Old July 13th, 2015, 09:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llama of death View Post
No jamb nuts. Pins.

Drill a small hole clean through the coupling and the housing both top and bottom. the only place there it can turn when pins are installed is at the the exposed male threads just like a normal stopper.

SMALL HOLE. don't over do it, by drilling a hole we are reducing strength, just big enough that the pin is thick enough to not shear off.
Loctite Green - DONE!

-Armadillo
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Old July 13th, 2015, 11:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Loctite Green - DONE!

-Armadillo
Great idea for the top [plate side] which is a permanent connection!

The connection to the toe stop would ideally be removable to allow replacement of the stop without building a new extension. Possibly a heat removable Red-loctite. Problem with that is the removal temp is 500 deg F. That would melt rubber and rubber smoke is toxic.
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Old July 14th, 2015, 05:43 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by llama of death View Post
Great idea for the top [plate side] which is a permanent connection!

The connection to the toe stop would ideally be removable to allow replacement of the stop without building a new extension. Possibly a heat removable Red-loctite. Problem with that is the removal temp is 500 deg F. That would melt rubber and rubber smoke is toxic.
Yes, green Loctite on top end of coupling thread only, where it never should need removal.
Bottom end of coupling will still need a jam nut unless its hex body has fancy machining for T/S stem clamping scheme (difficult).

Skate plates that use jam nuts against plate will still need to have one there to keep coupling from turning. This uses up vertical height and there is only so much available. Clearly plates with T/S clamping will work better for the extender coupling concept to work best.

For plates that do not clamp T/S, the question is, do you do the T/S height adjusting at the thread of the T/S stem, requiring that there be a 2nd jam nut there in addition to the plate's jam nut, or do you adjust T/S height only at the plate end of the assembly (or both)?

With a big stop and a plate that needs a 2nd jam nut against the plate, it could end up that the stop can't be set with enough ground clearance.

This needs to be checked carefully for the worst case (smallest wheels) scenario. With 18 threads per inch and maintaining the minimum # of threads worth of engagement at both ends of the coupling hex body, plus number of threads of adjustment range added, it could become an insufficient height issue depending on the plate's ground clearance.

-Armadillo
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Old July 20th, 2015, 07:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armadillo View Post
Yes, green Loctite on top end of coupling thread only, where it never should need removal.
Bottom end of coupling will still need a jam nut unless its hex body has fancy machining for T/S stem clamping scheme (difficult).
For this adhok home build version the top is perminetly joined and is intended for use with a clamping boss. The bottom is semi permanent with a pin to prevent the stop from turning.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armadillo View Post
Skate plates that use jam nuts against plate will still need to have one there to keep coupling from turning. This uses up vertical height and there is only so much available. Clearly plates with T/S clamping will work better for the extender coupling concept to work best.

For plates that do not clamp T/S, the question is, do you do the T/S height adjusting at the thread of the T/S stem, requiring that there be a 2nd jam nut there in addition to the plate's jam nut, or do you adjust T/S height only at the plate end of the assembly (or both)?
This all depends on my final design. One version only adjusts at the top, locking the stop at the bottom with a clamp or a pin (as you've noted this has its problems. The second version only adjusts at the bottom using a clamp. Once the geometry is right it should be universally usable.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Armadillo View Post
This needs to be checked carefully for the worst case (smallest wheels) scenario. With 18 threads per inch and maintaining the minimum # of threads worth of engagement at both ends of the coupling hex body, plus number of threads of adjustment range added, it could become an insufficient height issue depending on the plate's ground clearance.

-Armadillo
This is the current part of the design I am playing with.

I am hoping to bring this to market at some point here.

Though I would rather plate manufactures would just stop making the stop bosses so freaking short.
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