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Ask DocSk8 (Expert Indoor Skate Building Advice) This forum is different then the other SkateLog forums in that it is not a discussion forum, but rather a place you can ask skate building expert Fred "DocSk8" Benjamin about building and repairing indoor speed, derby, and jamskate quad roller skates. Please start a new thread for each new question.

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Old March 24th, 2013, 07:26 AM   #1
curtisxdavis
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Question Mistral vs Energy, 297 vs 336?

So I'm currently looking to purchase a new set up. I'm 5'8 around 165 lbs, I skate pretty hard with a fair amount of speed, I would describe my style as a mix of freestyle/ rhythm with a lot of spins and jumps. Right now I'm thinking about getting a 336 with a energy steel plate (clear cushions), bones swiss bearings, and bones artistic wheels.

However there's some things that I wanted to know before I made my purchase.
What are the differences between the Riedell 297 and 336 boots, and the Roll Line Mistral and Energy Steel Plates?
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Old March 24th, 2013, 05:11 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by curtisxdavis View Post
So I'm currently looking to purchase a new set up. I'm 5'8 around 165 lbs, I skate pretty hard with a fair amount of speed, I would describe my style as a mix of freestyle/ rhythm with a lot of spins and jumps. Right now I'm thinking about getting a 336 with a energy steel plate (clear cushions), bones swiss bearings, and bones artistic wheels.

However there's some things that I wanted to know before I made my purchase.
What are the differences between the Riedell 297 and 336 boots, and the Roll Line Mistral and Energy Steel Plates?
The Mistral is supposedly machined out of 2024. The Energy, 7075. Does it make a difference?? I can feel one and I favor the 7075...and not just in Roll Lines either..

The boots?? I gotta ask my art boot expert..
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Old March 24th, 2013, 06:57 PM   #3
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First off let me say thank you for the quick response . But, as far as the plates go its really just a matter of the materials/ compound used and weight?

Also I was looking at another boot I'm not sure if you have more experience with it but if you have any info on the Antik AR1 that would be very helpful. I've only been on art boots so I'm kind of skeptical about switching, however, it looks to provide some ankle support, and I really like their design. Would there be any major challenges for me if used such a boot?
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Old March 25th, 2013, 01:47 AM   #4
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First off let me say thank you for the quick response . But, as far as the plates go its really just a matter of the materials/ compound used and weight?

Pretty much. Roll lines have for basic plate designs.
1) The standard 15 degree design from which most of the plates are derived. Various combinations of metal and cushions are found here..
2) The grotesquely expensive short suspension 15 degree Matrix.
3) The 22 degree Ring and Novita plates
4) The new compound geometry sk8.. It's name escapes me at the moment, but I'm sure someone will fill us in.


Also I was looking at another boot I'm not sure if you have more experience with it but if you have any info on the Antik AR1 that would be very helpful. I've only been on art boots so I'm kind of skeptical about switching, however, it looks to provide some ankle support, and I really like their design. Would there be any major challenges for me if used such a boot?

Challenges?? Only to your balance...and possibly your sanity.. I have converted dozens of sk8rs from heels to little or no heel.. It's all a matter of focus until you re-program your autopilot... If you don't focus you will find yourself going over backwards a bit.. Usually takes one or 2 times to get that corrected..

Same kind of thing going with a short forward plates mount. Takes some time to get used to but it is so much fun once you figure it out.


Now as far as ankle support?? What is your definition of that?? High ankle boots are not synonymous with ankle support. There is more than no boot around your ankle.. I know dvw has mounted a few of those.. Maybe he will chime in..
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Old March 25th, 2013, 05:32 AM   #5
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Talking You rang?

I can echo what Doc said about the adjustment from heels to no heels. I did it ages ago, and I've never looked back. If a boot has any more than a smidge of a heel, it bothers me. Same thing with the short forward. 1/8" too long and I feel it.

As to the AR1, it's a good boot, very well made. Riedell makes them and they fit and behave like one. The AR1 also benefits from being made from premium leather, but it's priced like it is. It has a wedge heel that's about half an inch thick, and made of some type of dense foam material and has a little give to it. That's my least favorite part of that boot. My biggest concern is that it compresses over time and the mounting hardware doesn't. I've had one skater lose a screw, but she's a hard-driving derby jammer, and it wouldn't surprise me. I think my fears about this are mostly unfounded. And since it's intended as a competitive derby boot, the lacing options have been fairly well thought out. I don't think you'll have any problems there, and the modest heel might make the transition from art boots easier.

Doc's also right about the height of the leather equating to ankle support. Ankle protection, yes. You support your ankles through conditioning, even if only by skating. The thing I notice personally relative to cut of the boot at the ankle is related to my heel rolling in the boot when I turn. The higher cut can help minimize that if you're prone to rolling your heel or if you like to turn like I do, or both.

Changing boot types won't confuse you any further than you will be anyway if you are building a whole new skate and doing a short forward. Your brain has its work cut out for it, so now is the time. If anything, I would think that the lower heel would help with the transition to a shorter plate since the tendency is for your heel to pop out from under you until you get your balance shifted slightly. It doesn't take much of an adjustment, and it doesn't take long for it to be second nature, but the benefits greatly outweigh the transition time.
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Old March 25th, 2013, 12:34 PM   #6
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I have mounted about 15 pair of Antiks. I will echo most of what DVW has said. The taller Antik offers protection from impact with a wheel or another skater, but nothing that would indicate protection from a break. In fact, many of the skaters on them (I've seen)don't lace the top laces anyway. A team mate has been on his, which I put together, for over a year and none of the bolts have come loose. It is easy for an inexperienced person to compress the heck out of that foam while mounting them though. Well made boot, the toe box doesn't come close to fitting my feet though.
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Old March 25th, 2013, 01:02 PM   #7
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Just to chip in with another point of view - I hate trying to dance without at least 1/2" heel (preferably 3/4"), and it's really hard work on a short-forward plate too.

As for which boot, if you only ever lace up the bottom part of the boot then the 297 would be great; if you want to lace all the way up and do jumps etc then the 336 is going to be more comfy ... you might wanna ask this question on the Artistic forum though 'cause they know their art boots over there I'm just working on some 220 Retros at the mo, and they're great

The big difference between art boots and the likes of the Antiks is the size of the counters - Antiks are very flexible and have low speed boot type counters in them, if you like to work up on the sides of your wheels they'd feel a bit limp.
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Old March 25th, 2013, 03:01 PM   #8
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Thumbs up SSpinball did it

Made the switch that is.

http://www.skatelogforum.com/forums/...ad.php?t=48225
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Old March 25th, 2013, 09:11 PM   #9
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Yes, but has he trying to dance on them? I think if anyone tried to do some stunting or a breakleg spin on low-cut boots they'd have to be wheeled out on a stretcher ...
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Old March 26th, 2013, 10:33 AM   #10
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the 297 is the regular style dance /freestyle boot thats been around for years. it has a higher cut then the 336 and doesnt have the grooves cut out for flexibility as the 336 does. the 336 also has more ankle support and padding then the 297. the 336 is also padded around the top of the boot and is a bit lower cut in the back of it.
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Old March 26th, 2013, 02:46 PM   #11
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Thanks Rick,

There ya have it folks. I think we got all the questions answered..
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Old March 26th, 2013, 03:03 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the responses and info, you've all been a big help. I believe all of my questions have been answered, and I'm going to stick with the 336 and energy plate.
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Old March 31st, 2013, 05:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtisxdavis View Post
Thanks for all the responses and info, you've all been a big help. I believe all of my questions have been answered, and I'm going to stick with the 336 and energy plate.
Good choice, you won't be disappointed.
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