Thread: Axle Help
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Old November 24th, 2019, 11:24 PM   #44
Sk8 Ninja
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Huntington Wv
Posts: 3,422

The tinkering you do on skates is cool, purposeful, and individualized. It's not like you're out advocating people do the same things you've done. You just present information, if they want to know more, they can ask.

Our friend Mike(Ursle) just likes to hate on anything that doesnt appeal to him. Like those skates Cesar used to walk dogs, while ai dont like the look of them either , I didnt think they were stupid per se. Hes pretty judgemental out of the box.

He doesnt ask questions about the ups and down, such as "what if your kingpin does happen to break? Wouldnt it be difficult to remove?" Hes just instantly to the accusations of "this guys an idiot"

Personally, my only gripe with most kingpins, is they are threaded where they dont need to be. Or at least, shouldnt be. The threads should be only enough for proper use. The rest of the hardware should be smooth bore to retain the maximum strength possible. Another reason I hate laser plates. 7mm fully threaded axles are trash IMO, they are full of stress risers.

IMO here
A kingpin should have a beveled seat so the entire smooth circumference of the kingpin can be encapsulated by the plate at its base where the threads stop. The smooth bore should extend to about the maximum length they can be so you can still make compression adjustments, but at a point it would not allow more compression because there wouldnt be enough threaded area for it. One could, or should, at that point, use stiffer cushions Many kps break because they have threads below the truck or right at the truck yoke/cushion platform. Where the leverage are applied.
Home rink: Roll-A-Rama in Huntington Wv.
"Focus on form and speed is a byproduct, focus on speed and falling is a byproduct." - Matguy
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