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Old January 29th, 2018, 02:07 PM   #12
Street Skater
ursle's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: NH
Posts: 3,349

Originally Posted by amohrfeld View Post
First, The charts are really just a starting point. However, The Roll Line chart is fairly accurate. It is more important to determine the position of the ball of the foot and your heel center. Larger plates allow more room for error. Shorter plates must be mounted exactly. The rear wheel should be under the heel center. I disagree that you should focus on the front axle and let the rear fall where it may. You "feel" the front position more but the rear position limits movement or knocks you on your butt if not correct.

I'm using a 170 on a 9.5 boot for both my art skates - dance and freestyle. This is below the recommended length.

My Dance/336 plate is mounted fairly far back. It forces posture, but is brutal when leaning forward. I'm getting used to it though. I just built a Energy/Edea freestyle skate because the Dance/336 is limited to Dance and session skating. No stability to do a jump. I moved the plate forward .090" to get up on the rear wheels easier. Maybe I moved it too much. Time will tell.
If you are jumping and spinning in the air, it would be advantageous to have the wheels as far back and as far forward as possible, well, the front wheels have a sweet spot for take-offs.
But for free skating it's my experience that moving the rear axle to the outside ankle bone is the balance point, in front of the outside ankle bone and it's easy to go over backwards, just behind the outer ankle bone there's no problem concerning going over backwards, makes measuring axle simple, Ah, if you know your front axle point, I like the spot between my big and index toes, well in front of the front ball of the foot but not out at the big toe knuckle, where speed skaters place it, so axle distance is easy.
As an outdoor skater I jump and do 180's over curbs or to turn around to stop.
Shorter axle spacing smaller turns.
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