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Old June 24th, 2015, 11:35 PM   #4
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago, Near the Lake
Posts: 5,719
Default What is the 165mm plate you already have?

If this build is to be meant for outdoor hockey, then we can assume that rapid and constant changes in direction, as well as accelerations/decelerations will be your normal mode of skating.

On top of that you do not indicate what boot you are likely to be ending up using. Will it have much of a heel, if any? How much heel lift do you like, if any?

Knowing that outdoor hockey stops are more difficult to execute unless your wheels are rather too firm for good grip while skating/pushing, can we assume that, when reversing direction ASAP is needed, you will want to be using toe stops and doing quick 180's into a full toe stop breaking move?

The axle placement, IMO, is more important factor foe when you need to make a lot of transition moves that demand going up onto just the two wheels of the front axle.

Most skaters are used to and expect that front axles be located in a certain narrow band, such that when tipping their skates up to roll on just the front axle, for transitions (forward/rearward), the ankle leverage needed to bring rear wheels up should not shift dramatically higher than what has been the norm (for them) on prior quad skates.

Contrary to what ursle said, if a suspension setup is properly tuned for generous freedom of action it will give you that, regardless or where the axles are placed. Your foot may have slightly better or worse leverage for working the action, but that is only a concern when the suspension is very stiffly tuned.

If there is potential for hockey checks to stand you up with a rearward pushing hit, having rear axle a bit more rearward (from longer wheelbase) can give some benefit.

Offer more details on questions I raised for getting better, more specific advise.

Rollin' on AIR
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